Sea Bass Poached in Orange, Basil, and Wine with Citrus and Herb Sauce - From Things Cooks Love: Implements. Ingredients. Recipes.

From Things Cooks Love: Implements. Ingredients. Recipes.

Prep 30 min | cok time (poaching liquid) 15 min |
cok time (fish) 15 to 20 min | serves 6

The traditional liquid for poaching fish is called court bouillon. This is a broth made from cooking vegetables and herbs in water and wine. This recipe deviates from the classic by using orange juice, white wine, and basil. Prepare it ahead of time so it has time to cool to room temperature before you poach the fish. (Used poaching liquid can be strained and frozen for 1 to 2 months for a second use.) You’ll need enough liquid to cover the fish. Remember the fish should be slowly cooked in simmering, never boiling, liquid. Sea bass, a fine-fleshed fish with a sweet, mild flavor, is a good choice for poaching, but almost any firm-fleshed fish can be used.

Implements
Large Saucepan, Fine-mesh Strainer or Chinois, Vegetable Peeler, Fish Bone Tweezers or Pliers, 18-inch-long Fish Poacher, Small Knife or Instant-Read Thermometer (or Probe Type), Small Saucepan, Medium Bowl, Sauce or Standard Whisk, Oven Mitts, Rimmed Sheet Pan (Optional), Two Long Flat Spatulas or One Long and One Shorter Spatula, Ladle

Ingredients
Poaching Liquid
4 cups water
2 cups dry white wine
2 cups orange juice, preferably fresh
1 (3 by ½-inch) strip orange zest
1 large, leafy stem fresh basil
1 large, leafy stem fresh Italian parsley
1 yellow onion, thinly sliced
1 bay leaf
1 clove garlic, bruised with knife
1 teaspoon coarse salt
½ teaspoon black peppercorns
1 (3-pound) whole sea bass fillet with skin intact

Sauce
1 cup orange juice, preferably fresh
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 green onions, white and green parts, thinly sliced (about ¼ cups)
¼ cup chopped fresh basil
¼ cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano
½ teaspoon grated orange zest
1 teaspoon coarse salt
Freshly ground black pepper
8 thin slices navel orange, halved, for garnish
3 sprigs fresh basil, for garnish
1 cup tiny cherry tomatoes, for garnish

1. Make the poaching liquid: In a large saucepan, combine the water, wine, orange juice, orange zest, basil, parsley, onion, bay leaf, garlic, salt, and pepper, and bring to a boil over high heat. Adjust the heat to a gentle boil and cook, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Let cool to lukewarm. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer or chinois. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt.
2. To ensure even cooking, the fish and poaching liquid should be almost the same temperature. To achieve this, remove the fish from the refrigerator about 1 hour prior to cooking.
3. Run your hand over the surface of the fish fillet to locate the pin bones and determine the direction of their growth. Use the tip of fish bone tweezers or pliers to pinch the top of the pin bone and slowly tug at the same angle as the bone. If the bone breaks off, you are pulling in the opposite direction of growth, so you must reverse direction.
4. Remove the rack from a fish poacher 18 inches long and 7 inches wide. Lightly oil the rack with the olive oil. Place the fish, skin side down, on the rack. Lower the rack into the empty fish poacher. Gently pour the roomtemperature poaching liquid into the pan.
5. Set the pan over two burners and turn them on to medium heat. Cover and heat the liquid, checking under the cover frequently, until a bubble or two comes to the surface. (This will take about 15 minutes.) Adjust the heat to medium-low, re-cover, and cook, without boiling, for 15 to 18 minutes, until the tip of a small knife inserted into the thickest part of the fillet finds no resistance, or the internal temperature registers 130° to 140°F on an instant-read thermometer.
6. While the fish is poaching, make the sauce: Place the orange juice in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Adjust the heat to medium and boil gently for 5 minutes, or until the juice is reduced by half. Pour into a bowl and let cool to lukewarm.
7. Gradually whisk the olive oil into the orange juice until blended. Add the lemon juice, green onions, basil, parsley, oregano, orange zest, salt, and a grinding of pepper. Stir to blend and set aside.
8. When the fish is cooked, turn off the heat. Place next to the stove a rimmed sheet pan large enough to accommodate the poaching rack. Remove the cover of the fish poacher. With your fingers protected with oven mitts, carefully lift the rack from the fish poacher and place it on the sheet pan. (Alternatively, you can place the poaching rack with the fish in the sink.) Let the fish sit on the rack for 10 minutes. Loosen the fish by running a large, flat spatula between the fish and the rack. Then, use 2 long, flat spatulas, or 1 long spatula and 1 shorter one, to carefully lift the fish off the rack and place it on an oval platter.
9. Stir the sauce and ladle half of it over the fish. Arrange the orange slices on the surface of the fish in a slightly overlapping pattern to simulate fish scales. Garnish the platter with the basil sprigs and cherry tomatoes. Serve the fish warm, and pass the remaining sauce at the table. Or, cover the fish with plastic wrap and chill until ready to serve.

Lemon Mascarpone Layer Cake

From The Art and Soul of Baking

Serves 10 to 12 This soft, moist, towering cloud of a dessert lies somewhere between a cake and a trifle, its lemon syrup–soaked cake layers alternating with lemon mascarpone cream. Meyer lemons are especially fragrant, but this cake is outstanding even with supermarket Eureka lemons. There are a few steps here, but almost everything can be done ahead, which makes putting it together pretty easy.

Ingredients

Sponge Cakes
6 large eggs, separated
7 tablespoons (3 ounces) plus
7 tablespoons (3 ounces) sugar
1 3/4 cups (6 ounces) sifted cake flour

Lemon Syrup
1/2 cup (3 1/2 ounces) sugar
1/2 cup (4 fl ounces) water
1/4 cup (2 ounces) freshly squeezed
lemon juice

Mascarpone Filling
2 1/2 cups (20 ounces) heavy whipping cream
7 tablespoons (3 ounces) sugar
1 pound mascarpone
1 cup lemon curd, plus 1 1/2 cups for layering and garnish

Equipment

Two Ungreased 9 by 1 3/4-inch Round Cake Pans Lined with Parchment Paper, Pastry Brush, Small Offset Spatula, Icing Spatula, Pastry Bag Fitted with a 1/2-inch Star Tip

1 Preheat the oven to 375°F. Position oven racks in the lower and upper thirds of the oven.

2 Make the sponge cakes: Place the egg yolks and 7 tablespoons of the sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and whip on high speed until the mixture is thick and very light in color, 4 to 5 minutes. Set aside while you whip the egg whites.

3 In a clean bowl with a clean whisk attachment, whip the egg whites on medium speed to soft peaks. With the mixer running, gradually add the remaining 7 tablespoons of sugar and continue beating until the egg whites hold firm peaks. Fold one-third of the egg whites into the beaten yolks, then sift half of the flour over the top and gently fold it in. Repeat. Fold in the last of the egg whites until no streaks of white remain.

4 Divide the batter evenly between the prepared pans and bake for 18 to 22 minutes, until the top is golden, firm to the touch, and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out free of crumbs. Remove from the oven and place on a rack to cool completely.

5 Make the lemon syrup: Place the sugar and water in a small saucepan and heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar has completely dissolved and the liquid is clear. Remove from the heat and cool completely. Stir in the lemon juice.

6 Make the mascarpone filling: Place the cream and sugar in a bowl and whip to soft peaks. Refrigerate. Place the mascarpone and one cup of the lemon curd in a bowl and stir until blended—it should be the consistency of pudding. Gently fold in the whipped cream until the mixture is homogenous and thick. If the mixture becomes overworked, it will look grainy or separated. If this happens, stir in several tablespoons of cream with a rubber spatula—stir just until the mixture has smoothed out again.

Chocolate Celebration Cake

From Baking Kids Love by Sur La Table and Cindy Mushet

Makes 1 big, yummy cake!

Ingredients
For the cake
1 cup water
¾ cup buttermilk
¾ cup canola or corn oil
3 large eggs
2 cups unbleached, all-purpose flour
1 ¾ cups sugar
¾ cup unsweetened, natural cocoa powder
2 teaspoons baking soda
¼ teaspoon salt

For the frosting
3 cups unsifted powdered sugar
12 ounces cream cheese, room temperature
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

Tools
Two 9-inch cake pans, lightly buttered or sprayed, and lined with a piece of parchment paper cut to fit the bottom of the pan
Two medium bowls
Whisk
Fine sieve or strainer
Two large bowls
Silicone spatula
A 9-inch cake cardboard, or the bottom of a 9-inch tart pan or flat, round plate
Hand mixer
Small offset spatula

1. Before you begin
• Line each pan with a round of parchment paper (see page 10).
• Position two oven racks in the top and bottom thirds of the oven. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

2. Bake the cake
• Place the water, buttermilk, oil, and eggs in the medium bowl. Whisk until the eggs have completely blended into the mixture.
• Sift the flour, sugar, cocoa powder, baking soda, and salt into the larger bowl (see page 11).
• Pour the liquid ingredients into the dry ingredients. Whisk gently at first, and then, as the mixture blends, whisk faster, until it is a smooth batter and you don’t see any more dry patches.

3. Bake the cake
• Scrape the batter into the prepared pans, dividing it as evenly as you can. Put one pan in the center of each oven rack. Bake until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, 30 to 35 minutes.
• Transfer the pans to a cooling rack. If the cakes are rounded on top, place a clean, dry towel on top of each warm cake and press down firmly with the palm of your hand to level the surface. Cool completely.

4. Make the frosting
• Sift the powdered sugar into the medium bowl (see page 11).
• Place the room temperature cream cheese and butter in a large bowl and beat until they are blended and smooth. Add half of the powdered sugar and beat it in thoroughly. Scrape down the bowl with a silicone spatula. Add the remaining sugar and continue to beat until the mixture is blended and fluffy. Beat in the vanilla extract.

5. Unmold the cakes
• Slide a small spatula around the edges of the cake to separate it from the pan. Set the serving plate upside-down on top of the cake pan. Hold the plate and cake (in the pan) together like a sandwich, then flip them over. The cake will fall out of the pan onto the plate. Peel off the parchment paper.

6. Frost and decorate the cake
• Use a small offset spatula to spread half of the frosting over the cake, stopping about ¼ inch from the edge. When you put the second layer on top, it will squish the frosting out to the edge.
• Unmold the second cake by setting a cake cardboard or tart pan bottom on top of the pan, flipping the two over as described above, then gently pushing the cake off the
• Spread the remaining frosting over the top layer. Decorate the top with sprinkles, confetti candy, sparkling sugar, or whatever you Like. You can leave this at room temperature for a few hours. Otherwise, refrigerate the cake until serving time.

Playing around
This cake batter makes great cupcakes.

It will make 24, so you’ll need 2 standard-size cupcake pans with paper liners. Divide the batter evenly among the cups, filling them no more than ²⁄3 full. Bake on two racks as described in step 1, until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, 15 to 20 minutes. Cool completely before frosting the cupcakes. If you like chocolate frosting, try the one on page 20. board and into place on the frosting. Peel off the parchment paper.

Parmesan-Herb Popovers

From The Art & Soul of Baking

Makes 12 popovers Popovers are culinary sleight of hand. Their simple ingredients and mixing method belie the great heights to which they rise during baking, puffing up like crispy brown balloons. A popover pan is designed to optimize that rise, with tall narrow cups that force the batter upward. The recipe here gives instructions for baking popovers in a regular muffin pan; the variation uses a popover pan.

Although they don’t rise as high when baked in a muffin pan, they develop a rounded depression at the bottom that, when turned upside down, is the perfect spot for some sautéed mushrooms or a generous spoonful of soft-scrambled eggs. If you like, leave out the cheese and rosemary and fill the depression with your favorite jam.

Ingredients
1 cup (8 ounces) whole milk
2 large eggs
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) unsalted butter, melted
1 cup (5 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ cup (1 ounce) freshly grated
Parmesan cheese
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary

Equipment
Standard 12-Cup Muffin Pan, Medium Bowl, Whisk, Silicone or Rubber Spatula, 2-Cup Liquid Measuring Cup, Cooling Rack, Small Offset Spatula (Optional)

Getting Ahead
All of the ingredients may be measured in advance, but do not combine them until you are ready to bake the popovers.

1 Preheat the oven to 450°F and position an oven rack in the center. Lightly coat the muffin pan with melted butter, oil, or high-heat canola-oil spray. Once the oven is fully heated, heat the prepared muffin pan in the oven for 7 minutes.
2 In the medium bowl, whisk together the milk, eggs, melted butter, flour, and salt until well blended. Add the cheese and rosemary and blend well.
3 Use a spatula to scrape the batter into the measuring cup. Remove the pan from the oven and close the oven door. Divide the batter evenly among the prepared cups. Return the pan to the oven and bake for 15 minutes. Turn the oven down to 400°F and continue to bake for 15 minutes longer, until the popovers are puffed and deep golden brown. Cool the pan on a rack for a couple of minutes. Remove from the pan with a spoon or small offset spatula and serve hot.

Storing
Popovers do not hold or store well, so plan on enjoying them when they are fresh from the oven. If they have cooled, reheat them briefly in a 350°F oven for 5 to 10 minutes, until warm.

Classic Popovers
This variation uses the classic popover pan. The deep wells in the pan need more batter, so you’ll need to double the recipe above. Omit the Parmesan cheese and rosemary and increase the salt to ½ teaspoon. Bake for 20 minutes at 450°F, then lower the oven temperature to 350°F and continue to bake for 15 to 18 minutes, until the popovers are a deep golden brown. Serve immediately.

Chocolate Velvet Pound Cake

From The Art & Soul of Baking

Serves 6 to 8

This classic cake has a deep chocolate flavor and close grained, velvety crumb. A great keeper, it’s nice to have on hand in the freezer for that unexpected occasion. The cake can be dressed up with a little Dark Chocolate Ganache (page 412) spooned over the top and allowed to drip alluringly down the sides. Be sure to let the ganache cool to between 85° and 90°F before spooning it over the cake—at that temperature, it is cool enough to run in thick rivulets for a beautiful finish.

For a stunning finish to a special occasion, bake the cake in individual or min bundt pans, glaze with chocolate ganache, then add a tophat of Spun Sugar (page 433).

Ingredients
1 ½ sticks (6 ounces) unsalted butter, softened (65° to 68°F)
1 ¼ cups (8¾ ounces) sugar
1 teaspoon water, at room temperature
2 teaspoons instant espresso powder, such as Medaglia d’Oro
3 large eggs, at room temperature
1 cup (5 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour
½ cup (2 ounces) unsifted unsweetened
Dutch-process cocoa powder
¼ teaspoon baking powder
Pinch of salt
½ cup (4 ounces) buttermilk, at room temperature

Equipment
8 ½ by 4 ½-inch Loaf Pan, Parchment Paper, Stand Mixer Fitted with a Paddle Attachment or a Hand Mixer and a Medium Bowl, Silicone or Rubber Spatula, Small Bowl, Fine-Mesh Strainer, Medium Bowl, Whisk, Cooling Rack

1 Preheat the oven to 350°F and position an oven rack in the center. Lightly coat the pan with melted butter, oil, or high-heat canola-oil spray, and fit it with parchment paper to extend up both long sides to the top of the pan.
2 Cream the butter and sugar: Place the butter and sugar in the bowl of the stand mixer and beat on medium-high until light—almost white—in color, 4 to 5 minutes. You can also use a hand mixer and a medium bowl, although you may need to beat the mixture a little longer to achieve the same results. Scrape down the bowl with the spatula.
3 Add the eggs: In the small bowl, stir together the water and espresso powder until smooth. Crack the eggs into the bowl and beat to blend. With the mixer running on medium, add the eggs to the butter mixture about 1 tablespoon at a time, allowing each addition to completely blend in before adding the next. About halfway through, turn off the mixer and scrape down the bowl, then continue adding the eggs. Scrape down the bowl again.
4 Add the dry and wet ingredients alternately: With the fine-mesh strainer, sift the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, and salt into the medium bowl and whisk to blend. With the mixer running on the lowest speed, add the flour mixture and the buttermilk alternately, beginning with one-third of the flour mixture and half of the buttermilk; repeat, then finish with flour mixture. Scrape down the bowl and finish blending the batter by hand, if necessary.
5 Bake the cake: Scrape the batter into the prepared baking pan and smooth the top. Bake for 45 to 55 minutes, until firm to the touch and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Transfer to a rack to cool completely. When cool, remove from the pan, peel off the parchment paper, and serve.

Storing
The cake can be made several days ahead and kept at room temperature, wrapped in plastic wrap. Or double-wrap it, put in a resealable plastic freezer bag, and freeze for up to 8 weeks.

Individual Chocolate Velvet Bundt Cakes
Use an individual Bundt cake pan (with six 1-cup molds) and follow the instructions for the Individual Bundt Cakes variation (page 312), but bake for 16 to 19 minutes. See recipe introduction for finishing ideas. Makes 6 individual Bundt cakes.

Mini Chocolate Velvet Bundt Cakes
Use a mini Bundt pan (with twelve ¼-cup molds) and follow the instructions for the Mini Bundt Cakes variation (page 312), baking for 13 to 15 minutes. See recipe introduction for finishing ideas. Makes about 18 mini Bundt cakes.

What The Pros Know
The addition of espresso here is not just an enticement for caffeine addicts. Full-bodied, bitter espresso is often paired with dark chocolate because it deepens and enhances the flavor, making it taste even more, well, chocolaty. You won’t notice the coffee flavor, but if you leave it out, the cake will have a lighter chocolate profile. If you wish to omit the espresso, try adding 1 teaspoon pure chocolate extract, or 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract.

Shrimp and Pork Dumplings with Spicy Dipping Sauce

From Things Cooks Love: Implements. Ingredients. Recipes.

Prep 30 to 45 min | cook time (per batch) 20 minutes |
Makes about 40 dumplings | serves 4–6

Asian dumplings are fun to make and to eat, and ready-made wrappers can be found in the refrigerated or frozen-food section of many supermarkets. Asian dumplings can be boiled, braised and browned in a skillet, or steamed. These are complemented by a spicy dipping sauce.

Implements
Small Saucepan, Small Strainer, Food Processor, Rimmed Sheet Pan, Parchment Paper, Large Skillet, Tongs, 1 or 2 Bamboo Steamers, Pot Holder

Ingredients
Filling
½ cup dried (about ½ ounce) shiitake mushroom slices
4 ounces shrimp, shelled and deveined
4 ounces ground pork (not too lean)
2 tablespoons finely chopped shallot
2 teaspoons peeled, finely chopped fresh ginger
2 teaspoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons Chinese rice wine or dry sherry
½ teaspoon toasted sesame oil
½ teaspoon crushed or grated garlic
¼ teaspoon sugar
¹⁄8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
All-purpose flour, for dusting
1 (10-ounce) package refrigerated or frozen round wonton wrappers or square gyoza skins (about 50)
6 to 8 whole Napa cabbage leaves

Spicy Dipping Sauce
¹⁄3 cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons Chinese black vinegar or balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons water
¼ teaspoon chile oil

1. Make the filling: In a small saucepan, combine the mushrooms with water to cover (about 1 cup) and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat, cover, and let stand for 20 minutes, or until softened. Drain in a small strainer placed over a bowl, reserving the soaking liquid for soup. Spread the mushrooms on a clean kitchen towel and blot dry. Finely chop the mushrooms.

2. In a food processor, pulse the shrimp until finely chopped but not pureed. In a large bowl, combine the mushrooms, shrimp, pork, shallot, ginger, soy sauce, rice wine, sesame oil, garlic, sugar, and black pepper. Insert a chopstick or the round handle of a wooden spoon into the mixture and pull it straight across once or twice to mix the ingredients. Then use the chopstick or handle to stir the mixture gently in one direction until well mixed.

3. Have ready a small bowl of warm water. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper or waxed paper. Lightly flour a flat work surface, and lay a wrapper on the surface. Top the wrapper with a rounded teaspoon of the filling, placing it off center. Using your fingertip or a small brush, moisten half of the edge of the wrapper with the warm water. If using a round wrapper, fold it in half to make a half circle. If using a square wrapper, fold it in half to make a triangle. Pinch the center closed first. Using your fingertips, make 2 pleats on the front (side facing you) flap of the wrapper and press to close. (You can skip the pleats, see Tips, following). Alternatively, bring the corners of both sides of the bottom of the triangle together and seal. Stand the dumpling on the prepared sheet pan. Repeat to make more dumplings until you have used up all of the filling. As you put the dumplings on the sheet pan, make sure they are not touching, or they will stick together. If you have leftover wrappers, they can be frozen for another use. At this point, the dumplings can be frozen. Place them on a rimmed sheet pan lined with heavyduty aluminum foil and freeze solid, then peel them off the foil and store them in a resealable plastic freezer bag in the freezer for up to 2 months. Thaw before steaming.

4. Half fill a large skillet or sauté pan with water and bring to a boil. Add the cabbage leaves a few at a time and blanch for 1 minute, or until wilted. Using tongs, transfer 150 the leaves to a plate and let cool. Lay the cooled leaves in a single layer, overlapping them slightly, in the bottom of 1 or 2 bamboo steamers. Arrange as many dumplings as will fit comfortably, without touching, on top of the leaves.

5. Place the bottom of a steamer in a large wok and add just enough water so that the rim, but not the mesh, of the steamer touches the water. If using a second tier, place it on top of the first and cover it; otherwise, just press the top in place. Place the wok on the stove and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-high and steam the dumplings for 18 minutes.

6. Meanwhile, make the dipping sauce. In a small bowl, combine the soy, vinegar, water, and chile oil and stir to mix. Set aside in small serving bowls.

7. When the time is up, test the dumplings for doneness: Uncover the steamer, remove 1 dumpling, and cut it open. The filling should be cooked through and the dumpling light and tender.

8. To serve, slide the steamer (or each steamer) onto a round platter using a pot holder. Serve the dumplings directly from the baskets, and eat the cabbage leaves along with the dumplings. Either spoon the sauce over the dumplings once they’re served or place individual bowls of sauce on the table for dipping.

tips
The Many Ways to Wrap a Dumpling Dumpling wrappers are variously called dumpling skins, wonton wrappers, and gyoza wrappers. Examine them carefully before buying. The thicker wrappers are good for boiled dumplings, whereas the thinner ones are better for steamed or fried dumplings. Although round and square wrappers are traditionally used for different fillings, they can be used interchangeably.

Chinese steamed dumplings are typically pleated along their edges, so that the steam can puff them up without the delicate wrapper tearing. (If they do break open during steaming, you have probably used too much filling.) The pleating can be omitted in favor of simply pressing the edges together firmly; be sure you underfill the dumplings slightly, or they will break open while steaming. Or, look for a molded plastic dumpling maker, a hinged tool that pleats and presses a Chinese dumpling with one easy motion.

Why Stir in One Direction?
It may sound overly fussy, but stirring the dumpling filling in one direction is important. It blends the ingredients together thoroughly without compacting them, which is what happens if you stir them in more than one direction. Your filling will be lighter and more tender as a result. Apply this same technique to meat loaf, meatball, and pâté mixtures.

Fennel and Orange Salad with Fresh Cranberries and Green Apple

From Knives Cooks Love: How to Buy, Sharpen, and Use Your Most Important Kitchen Tool

Bright, tangy, and full of flavors, this slawlike salad will jazz up a pork, chicken, or turkey main course. It also lets you hone your fennel slicing and orange-segmenting skills. Reducing the orange juice is the key to the dressing’s intense flavor.

Serves 4 as a side dish

²⁄3 cup fresh cranberries
2 tablespoons sugar
3 navel or blood oranges (or a mix)
1 fennel bulb
¼ small red onion
1 small Granny Smith apple
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley (see page 132)
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus a pinch
Freshly ground black pepper

Set a cutting board in a large rimmed baking sheet (to catch any runaway cranberries). Cut the berries in half, cupping your hand over the spine of the knife to help prevent berries from popping off the board. Continue chopping them to medium-coarse pieces, as for a relish. Put the cranberries in a small bowl and toss with the sugar. Let macerate for about 20 minutes as you prepare the restof the ingredients.

Working over a bowl, segment the oranges (see page 150). Pick out any stray seeds. Separate the orange segments from their juice, reserving both in separate bowls. Peel away the outer layer of fennel if it isscuffed up or very fibrous. Quarter and core the fennel, and cut it into very thin crosswise slices (see page 119); you should have 2 to 2 ½ cups. Put the fennel in a large bowl. Cut the onion into very thin crosswise slices until you get ¼ cup (see page 94), and add it to the bowl.

Peel the apple and cut it into ³⁄8-inch-thick slices (see page 139). Cut the slices into ³⁄8- inch julienne strips and then crosswise into ³⁄8-inch dice; you should have 1 cup. Add the apple to the bowl with the fennel. Add the parsley to the bowl as well.

Combine the olive oil, vinegar, and a generous pinch of salt in a small dish. Pour the reserved orange juice into a very small saucepan. Give the orange segments a gentle squeeze to release additional juice and add the juices to the pan. Bring the juice to a simmer and let it reduce down to a thin, syrupy consistency, 2 to 3 minutes; you should have about 1 tablespoon of juice. Add it to the oil mixture.

Sprinkle the fennel mixture with the ½ teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper. Scrape the cranberries, along with any juices, into the bowl. Add the orange segments (but not their juices, if any) and toss gently. Whisk the dressing and drizzle it over the salad. Toss to coat. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 12 hours. Taste and add salt if needed before serving.